Bernath admits he has no basis for comparison, but I certainly do and it's pretty impressive; the texture totally nails it.The Babke French Toast ($11.95) offers a sweet and salty breakfast option.

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Located on the aging corridor of Bathurst north of Lawrence that caters mainly to Toronto's Orthodox Jewish community. Inside is bright and casual; knotty pine paneling wraps around the walls and comfortable seating is offered at tables or the lunch counter.

While most delis like Caplansky's and Pancer's are 'Jewish-styled', Ben & Izzy's is strictly kosher – Glatt kosher that is, which means the menu is dairy free.

There's no butter, no cheese, or even milk for a coffee, though I'd argue that these are not things essential to a good delicatessen anyway.

If anything, the house-butchered, brined and smoked meats benefit deliciously from the high quality and extra care that their preparation requires.

Served with a pickle, the Pastrami Sandwich ($9.95, lead photo) is crafted onto the type of soft rye bread that sticks to the roof of your mouth.

The thin machine-sliced smoked meat is so moist it hardly needs even the obligatory squirt of yellow mustard. Loaded onto a pillowy challah bun, the Chicken Club (.95) is a tasty introduction to the housemade beef bacon served over juicy grilled chicken thighs with lettuce, tomato and mayo.

The beef bacon (or rather beef fry) surprisingly tastes and looks similar to the real thing; it's ribboned with fat, sliced super thin, par cook in an oven, and then, fried to order.

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